Publication

Antifragility in Climbing: Determining Optimal Stress Loads for Athletic Performance Training

Hill, Y., Kiefer, A. W., Silva, P. L., Van Yperen, N. W., Meijer, R. R., Fischer, N. & Hartigh, den, R., 11-Mar-2020, In : Frontiers in Psychology. 11, 272.

Research output: Contribution to journalArticleAcademicpeer-review

APA

Hill, Y., Kiefer, A. W., Silva, P. L., Van Yperen, N. W., Meijer, R. R., Fischer, N., & Hartigh, den, R. (2020). Antifragility in Climbing: Determining Optimal Stress Loads for Athletic Performance Training. Frontiers in Psychology, 11, [272]. https://doi.org/10.3389/fpsyg.2020.00272

Author

Hill, Yannick ; Kiefer, Adam W. ; Silva, Paula L. ; Van Yperen, Nico W. ; Meijer, Rob R. ; Fischer, Nina ; Hartigh, den, Ruud. / Antifragility in Climbing : Determining Optimal Stress Loads for Athletic Performance Training. In: Frontiers in Psychology. 2020 ; Vol. 11.

Harvard

Hill, Y, Kiefer, AW, Silva, PL, Van Yperen, NW, Meijer, RR, Fischer, N & Hartigh, den, R 2020, 'Antifragility in Climbing: Determining Optimal Stress Loads for Athletic Performance Training', Frontiers in Psychology, vol. 11, 272. https://doi.org/10.3389/fpsyg.2020.00272

Standard

Antifragility in Climbing : Determining Optimal Stress Loads for Athletic Performance Training. / Hill, Yannick; Kiefer, Adam W.; Silva, Paula L.; Van Yperen, Nico W.; Meijer, Rob R.; Fischer, Nina; Hartigh, den, Ruud.

In: Frontiers in Psychology, Vol. 11, 272, 11.03.2020.

Research output: Contribution to journalArticleAcademicpeer-review

Vancouver

Hill Y, Kiefer AW, Silva PL, Van Yperen NW, Meijer RR, Fischer N et al. Antifragility in Climbing: Determining Optimal Stress Loads for Athletic Performance Training. Frontiers in Psychology. 2020 Mar 11;11. 272. https://doi.org/10.3389/fpsyg.2020.00272


BibTeX

@article{6e07d5a16e25484c94ee2438cac8d262,
title = "Antifragility in Climbing: Determining Optimal Stress Loads for Athletic Performance Training",
abstract = "In the past decades, much research has examined the negative effects of stressors on the performance of athletes. However, according to evolutionary biology, organisms may exhibit growth under stress, a phenomenon called antifragility. For both coaches and their athletes, a key question is how to design training conditions to help athletes develop the kinds of physical, physiological, and behavioral adaptations underlying antifragility. An answer to this important question requires a better understanding of how individual athletes respond to stress or loads in the context of relevant sports tasks. In order to contribute to such understanding, the present study leverages a theoretical and methodological approach to generate individualized load–response profiles in the context of a climbing task. Climbers (n = 37) were asked to complete different bouldering (climbing) routes with increasing loading (i.e. difficulty). We quantified the behavioral responses of each individual athlete by mathematically combining two measures obtained for each route: (a) maximal performance (i.e. the percentage of the route that was completed) and (b) number of attempts required to achieve maximal performance. We mapped this composite response variable as a function of route difficulty. This procedure resulted in load–response curves that captured each athlete{\textquoteright}s adaptability to stress, termed phenotypic plasticity (PP), specifically operationalized as the area under the generated curves. The results indicate individual load–response profiles (and by extension PP) for athletes who perform at similar maximum levels. We discuss how these profiles might be used by coaches to systematically select stress loads that may be ideally featured in performance training.",
author = "Yannick Hill and Kiefer, {Adam W.} and Silva, {Paula L.} and {Van Yperen}, {Nico W.} and Meijer, {Rob R.} and Nina Fischer and {Hartigh, den}, Ruud",
year = "2020",
month = mar,
day = "11",
doi = "10.3389/fpsyg.2020.00272",
language = "English",
volume = "11",
journal = "Frontiers in Psychology",
issn = "1664-1078",
publisher = "Frontiers Media SA",

}

RIS

TY - JOUR

T1 - Antifragility in Climbing

T2 - Determining Optimal Stress Loads for Athletic Performance Training

AU - Hill, Yannick

AU - Kiefer, Adam W.

AU - Silva, Paula L.

AU - Van Yperen, Nico W.

AU - Meijer, Rob R.

AU - Fischer, Nina

AU - Hartigh, den, Ruud

PY - 2020/3/11

Y1 - 2020/3/11

N2 - In the past decades, much research has examined the negative effects of stressors on the performance of athletes. However, according to evolutionary biology, organisms may exhibit growth under stress, a phenomenon called antifragility. For both coaches and their athletes, a key question is how to design training conditions to help athletes develop the kinds of physical, physiological, and behavioral adaptations underlying antifragility. An answer to this important question requires a better understanding of how individual athletes respond to stress or loads in the context of relevant sports tasks. In order to contribute to such understanding, the present study leverages a theoretical and methodological approach to generate individualized load–response profiles in the context of a climbing task. Climbers (n = 37) were asked to complete different bouldering (climbing) routes with increasing loading (i.e. difficulty). We quantified the behavioral responses of each individual athlete by mathematically combining two measures obtained for each route: (a) maximal performance (i.e. the percentage of the route that was completed) and (b) number of attempts required to achieve maximal performance. We mapped this composite response variable as a function of route difficulty. This procedure resulted in load–response curves that captured each athlete’s adaptability to stress, termed phenotypic plasticity (PP), specifically operationalized as the area under the generated curves. The results indicate individual load–response profiles (and by extension PP) for athletes who perform at similar maximum levels. We discuss how these profiles might be used by coaches to systematically select stress loads that may be ideally featured in performance training.

AB - In the past decades, much research has examined the negative effects of stressors on the performance of athletes. However, according to evolutionary biology, organisms may exhibit growth under stress, a phenomenon called antifragility. For both coaches and their athletes, a key question is how to design training conditions to help athletes develop the kinds of physical, physiological, and behavioral adaptations underlying antifragility. An answer to this important question requires a better understanding of how individual athletes respond to stress or loads in the context of relevant sports tasks. In order to contribute to such understanding, the present study leverages a theoretical and methodological approach to generate individualized load–response profiles in the context of a climbing task. Climbers (n = 37) were asked to complete different bouldering (climbing) routes with increasing loading (i.e. difficulty). We quantified the behavioral responses of each individual athlete by mathematically combining two measures obtained for each route: (a) maximal performance (i.e. the percentage of the route that was completed) and (b) number of attempts required to achieve maximal performance. We mapped this composite response variable as a function of route difficulty. This procedure resulted in load–response curves that captured each athlete’s adaptability to stress, termed phenotypic plasticity (PP), specifically operationalized as the area under the generated curves. The results indicate individual load–response profiles (and by extension PP) for athletes who perform at similar maximum levels. We discuss how these profiles might be used by coaches to systematically select stress loads that may be ideally featured in performance training.

U2 - 10.3389/fpsyg.2020.00272

DO - 10.3389/fpsyg.2020.00272

M3 - Article

VL - 11

JO - Frontiers in Psychology

JF - Frontiers in Psychology

SN - 1664-1078

M1 - 272

ER -

ID: 113499973